Leather Jacket Size Guide: How to Measure, Convert UK, US and EU Sizes and Get the Fit Right
By LeatherJacket.pk team · Published · All buyer guides
A leather jacket is less forgiving than a knit or a denim jacket. It softens and shapes itself to you, but it will not grow a size and the sleeves will never get longer. The size you choose on day one is close to the size you will live with.
Below: how to measure your body and, more usefully, a jacket you already like; how UK, US and European sizes line up; how much room to leave for winter layers; and what to send if your jacket is being made to order.
Why leather sizing works differently
Three things set leather apart. It barely stretches in length, and any give across the width is small. The lining counts: quilting or shearling takes up room inside the same outer measurements, so two jackets with identical labels can feel a size apart. And fitted styles have higher armholes, which look sharp but limit what you can wear underneath.
How to measure yourself
Use a soft tape measure and, ideally, a helper. Wear the kind of top you will usually have under the jacket, stand relaxed and keep the tape snug, not tight.
| Measurement | How to take it | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Chest | Around the fullest part, under the arms and across the shoulder blades | Keep the tape level at the back |
| Waist | Around your natural waist, usually just above the navel | Matters most for belted bikers and cropped cuts |
| Hips (women's cuts) | Around the widest part of the hips | Needed for longline jackets and blazers |
| Shoulder width | Across the back, from one shoulder point (the bony tip) to the other | Hard to do alone, so ask for help |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder point, over a slightly bent elbow, to the wrist bone | Riders add a little for the reach to the handlebars |
| Back length | From the base of the neck at the back down to where you want the hem | Bikers usually end at the belt line, bombers at or just below the hip bone |
Add your height. It helps a maker judge back and sleeve length.
The more reliable method: measure a jacket that already fits
Body measurements tell a maker your size. A jacket you already like, leather or not, tells them the fit you want, which is much harder to put into words. Lay it flat, close it, and smooth it out without stretching.
- Chest: straight across from one armpit seam to the other, then double the figure.
- Shoulders: across the back from one shoulder seam to the other.
- Sleeve: from the shoulder seam along the top of the sleeve to the cuff edge. Raglan sleeves have no shoulder seam, so measure from the centre back of the collar and say so.
- Length: from the collar seam at the centre back straight down to the hem.
- Hem: straight across the bottom edge, then double it. Measure rib-knit hems relaxed, not stretched.
Photograph the tape on each measurement so there is no doubt where you started and stopped.
How much room to leave
Ease is the gap between your body and the jacket. Rough starting points for the chest:
| Fit | Jacket chest minus body chest | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Close / fitted | about 5–8 cm (2–3 in) | Café racers and fashion bikers worn over a T-shirt |
| Regular | about 8–13 cm (3–5 in) | Everyday bikers, truckers and blazers over a shirt or thin knit |
| Relaxed / layering | about 13–18 cm (5–7 in) | Bombers, oversized cuts, jackets worn over hoodies or chunky jumpers |
Preferences vary, so treat these as a guide. For a mainly-winter jacket, measure your chest over the jumper you will actually wear. With shearling, the wool takes up space, so compare inside measurements or tell the maker which lining you want.
UK, US and EU size conversion
Men's jacket sizes in the UK and the US use the same number: the body chest measurement in inches. Most of continental Europe uses a number that is roughly half the chest measurement in centimetres, so the two systems are about ten apart.
| UK / US | EU (Germany, France, Italy) | Body chest (cm) | Body chest (in) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 36 | 46 | 91 | 36 |
| 38 | 48 | 97 | 38 |
| 40 | 50 | 102 | 40 |
| 42 | 52 | 107 | 42 |
| 44 | 54 | 112 | 44 |
| 46 | 56 | 117 | 46 |
| 48 | 58 | 122 | 48 |
| 50 | 60 | 127 | 50 |
Letter sizes (S, M, L, XL) have no shared standard. One brand's medium is another's large, so convert letters to a chest measurement with that brand's own chart.
Women's sizes do not follow the chest at all, and Europe is split: Germany, France and Italy each use their own numbers. For a women's jacket, our step-by-step guide on how to measure for a women's leather jacket covers bust, waist and back length. For men, see how to measure for a men's leather jacket.
| UK | US | Germany | France / Spain | Italy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6 | 2 | 32 | 34 | 38 |
| 8 | 4 | 34 | 36 | 40 |
| 10 | 6 | 36 | 38 | 42 |
| 12 | 8 | 38 | 40 | 44 |
| 14 | 10 | 40 | 42 | 46 |
| 16 | 12 | 42 | 44 | 48 |
| 18 | 14 | 44 | 46 | 50 |
Use these tables to translate labels, not to decide your size. Your measurements against the maker's own chart always beat a label number.
How each style should fit
Biker
Short and close. Hem at or just below the belt line, sleeves slightly long so they still reach the wrist with your arms forward. Snug across the back, no pull at the zip.
Bomber
Roomier body, gathered by a rib-knit hem at or just below the hip bone. If the rib stretches visibly while you stand still, it is too small. More on bomber builds on our leather bomber jackets page.
Café racer
The slimmest classic shape: high armholes, short body. Fit it over a T-shirt or thin knit; it is not a layering jacket.
Shearling / aviator
Size for the lining. The wool reduces room inside, so the same outer chest as your biker feels tighter. Cross your arms; the back should not strain.
Leather blazer
Fits like a tailored jacket: shoulder seam on the shoulder point, a little shirt cuff showing, no X-shaped pull across the buttons.
Trucker
Boxy and straight, ending at the hip. Easy to fit and to layer.
Will it stretch? What each leather does with wear
Leather relaxes; it does not grow. Lambskin softens quickly and may give slightly across the chest and back, goatskin sits in the middle, and cowhide breaks in by creasing at the elbows and shoulders while its size barely changes. So never buy a size too small hoping it will stretch. Our comparison of lambskin, cowhide and goatskin covers feel and weight in more detail.
Sizing a made-to-order jacket or a size set
For a single custom piece, send your body measurements, the flat measurements of a jacket that fits the way you like, your height, and a line on how you will wear it (over a T-shirt, over a hoodie, on a motorbike). Small corrections after the first sample are normal. Our page on custom leather jackets cut to your measurements lists the styles and options.
Brands and shops need a size chart, not one set of numbers: each point of measure, your base size, the step between sizes and a tolerance per point. Decide early whether labels show UK/US numbers, EU numbers or letters, and keep the same chart for every reorder. If you are new to this, it helps to see how patterns are drafted and graded before you write the chart, and buyers planning wholesale orders in mixed sizes should agree the size breakdown per style in writing. Our guide to size sets and grading for a leather jacket range explains base sizes, grade rules and tolerances.
Common sizing mistakes
- Measuring over a thick jumper, then wearing the jacket over a T-shirt (or the reverse).
- Reading a size label as a garment measurement. A men's 40 is for a 40-inch chest; the jacket itself measures more.
- Ordering a lined version of an unlined jacket you own in the same size, without allowing for the lining.
- Choosing by chest alone. Shoulders and sleeves are the hardest parts for a tailor to alter, so get them right first.
Not sure which size to pick? Send your measurements, or photos of a jacket that fits you well, and talk it through with the makers at LeatherJacket.pk on WhatsApp.
FAQ
Should a leather jacket be tight when you first buy it?
Snug, not tight. You should be able to close it and move your arms freely over the layer you usually wear. A jacket that pulls at the zip on day one will usually still pull later.
Do leather jackets stretch?
Slightly across the width, mostly in softer leathers such as lambskin. They do not get longer, so sleeve and body length need to be right from the start.
Should I size up for winter layers?
Only if you will usually wear a thick knit or hoodie underneath. Better still, measure your chest over that layer and pick the size that matches.
What is a European size 50 in UK and US sizes?
For men's jackets, EU 50 usually matches a UK or US 40, which is meant for a chest of about 102 cm. Brands vary, so check the maker's own chart before you order.
How do I measure sleeve length for a leather jacket?
On your body, from the shoulder point over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist bone. On a jacket you own, from the shoulder seam to the cuff edge.