Sheepskin vs Shearling: What an Aviator Jacket Is Really Made Of
By LeatherJacket.pk team · Published · All buyer guides
Shearling is sheepskin that has been tanned with the wool left on. So every shearling jacket is a sheepskin jacket, but not every sheepskin jacket is shearling: sheepskin tanned with the wool removed becomes the soft, smooth leather used for many fashion jackets. In everyday British English, a "sheepskin jacket" or "sheepskin coat" nearly always means the wool-on kind. An aviator is a style; a genuine shearling aviator is cut from wool-on skins, with the wool on the inside.
Below: the terms you will meet on labels, how the classic flight styles differ, and how to choose wool, finish and size.
The short answer: sheepskin is the animal's skin, wool on or off. Shearling is the wool-on version, with leather or suede outside and natural wool inside. Aviators such as the B-3 are traditionally shearling; the A-2 and most bombers are plain leather; anything sold as faux shearling is polyester pile.
Sheepskin, shearling, lambskin, mouton: what the words mean
Sellers use these words loosely, and the same word can mean different things in a tannery, a shop and a conversation. This is how they are generally used:
| Term | What it usually means | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Sheepskin | The skin of a sheep, tanned either with the wool on or with it removed | On a coat or aviator it normally means wool-on; on a fashion jacket it can mean smooth wool-off leather |
| Shearling | Sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the wool on, worn wool inside | Strictly, the skin of a young sheep shorn once before slaughter, so the wool is short and even. In practice, any wool-on sheepskin garment |
| Lambskin | Skin from a young sheep | In jackets it usually means soft wool-off nappa; lambskin shearling also exists and is lighter |
| Double-face | One skin with both sides finished: suede or leather outside, wool inside | No separate lining, which is why it breathes so well |
| Mouton | Sheepskin whose wool has been sheared and straightened, often dyed | Seen on some flight jacket collars; denser and flatter than curly wool |
| Faux shearling | Polyester pile on a fabric backing | Lighter and cheaper, but it should always be labelled as faux |
Our shearling page sets out the difference between full shearling, shearling-lined and collar-only jackets, which is the other common source of confusion.
Is it real shearling? Three quick checks
- Part the wool at its base. Natural wool grows out of skin. Faux pile is anchored in a woven or knitted fabric you can see when you part it.
- Look at a raw edge. At a cuff, hem or inside a pocket, real shearling shows one continuous layer: wool on one side, suede or leather on the other. Faux usually shows fabric, foam or glue between layers.
- Feel how it warms up. Real shearling warms quickly against your hand and does not feel clammy; synthetic pile can feel slippery and warm up slowly.
No single check is perfect, so use two or three together, and ask for the material in writing when you buy online.
Aviator, flying jacket, bomber: which is which
These names come from military flight clothing, and today they describe a look rather than an official specification. A "B-3 style" jacket is inspired by the original, not made to its pattern.
| Style | Material | How to recognise it |
|---|---|---|
| B-3 style aviator | Heavy wool-on sheepskin | Wide shearling collar with throat straps, waist-length body, belted or strapped hem. Built for real cold |
| RAF-style flying jacket | Wool-on sheepskin | Large collar and a body made from several smaller panels, often with visible seams |
| Modern flying jacket | Shearling, or leather with a shearling collar | Slimmer zip front with a collar that folds flat; easier to wear in town |
| A-2 style | Plain leather, usually goatskin or cowhide | Snap-down shirt collar, knitted cuffs and waistband, no wool. Often called a bomber |
| G-1 style | Plain leather | Knitted cuffs and waistband with a mouton or fur-style collar |
| MA-1 style | Originally nylon | Rib collar and sleeve pocket; often rebuilt in leather as a bomber |
If you like the flight look but not the bulk, the A-2 and MA-1 shapes are covered on our leather bomber jackets page, where a shearling collar is a popular winter upgrade.
Choosing wool and finish for how you live
The same aviator shape can feel very different depending on the skin. Think about how you will actually wear it:
- Mostly city wear: shorter wool keeps sleeves slimmer and makes the jacket easier to wear on public transport and indoors.
- Very cold, dry winters: longer wool traps more air and is noticeably warmer, at the cost of bulk.
- Damp climates: a smooth leather or waxed outer handles light rain better than a suede-out finish, which marks when wet.
- Driving a lot: a waist-length aviator sits better in a car seat than a long sheepskin coat.
- Look: curly wool reads vintage, straight wool smoother and more modern; cream contrast is classic, tonal wool quieter.
Our guide to how leather jackets compare for warmth ranks shearling against quilted, flannel and satin linings if you are still deciding how warm you need to go.
Sizing a shearling aviator
Wool takes up room on the inside, so a shearling jacket with the same outside chest measurement as your leather jacket will feel tighter. Measure over the thickest layer you plan to wear underneath, and compare inside measurements where you can. Our size guide explains how much ease to leave for winter layers.
- The armholes and sleeves feel narrower because of the wool, so check that you can reach forward comfortably.
- A full shearling jacket is heavy, so shoulder fit matters more than usual. The weight should sit on your shoulders, not drag at the collar.
- Aviators are short by design. If you want cover over the hips, ask for a longer body rather than a bigger size, which also lengthens the sleeves.
Is a full shearling aviator right for you?
For long periods outdoors in real cold, a full shearling aviator is hard to beat. In a mild winter, or if you spend most of the day indoors, it can be too warm and too heavy to carry around. A leather jacket with a shearling collar and cuffs, or a shearling-lined biker, gives you much of the look and some of the warmth with far less bulk. Match it to your coldest regular day.
What to ask before you order
- Is the skin sheep or lamb, and is it genuine shearling or faux? Get the answer in writing.
- Photos of the actual skins: wool type, length and colour, plus the outer finish in daylight.
- How are the seams finished: exposed with a wool edge, or bound with leather tape?
- What hardware is used on the collar straps, belt and zip, and in which finish?
- Can the sample or mock-up be checked against measurements taken over your usual layers?
We make shearling and sheepskin jackets to order, from B-3 style aviators to collar-only styles. Wool options depend on the skins on hand, so we confirm them with photos first. See our shearling leather jackets for styles and construction, or our custom jacket styles for something of your own. Price and timing are confirmed per design on WhatsApp.
Thinking about a shearling aviator? Tell us the style, the climate you live in and your measurements, and we will suggest a skin and wool to match.
FAQ
Is sheepskin the same as shearling?
Not exactly. Shearling is sheepskin tanned with the wool on. Sheepskin can also be tanned with the wool removed, which gives a smooth leather. In everyday speech, a sheepskin coat or jacket usually means shearling.
Is a shearling jacket real leather?
Genuine shearling is a real skin: leather or suede on the outside and natural wool on the inside. Faux shearling is polyester pile on a fabric backing and should be labelled that way.
What is the difference between an aviator and a bomber jacket?
A classic aviator, such as the B-3 style, is made from heavy wool-on sheepskin with a wide shearling collar. Most bombers, such as the A-2 style, are plain leather with knitted cuffs and a knitted waistband.
Should I size up for a shearling jacket?
The wool takes up room inside, so measure over the layers you will wear and compare inside measurements. Ask for extra room in the chest or a longer body rather than simply choosing a bigger size.
Are shearling aviator jackets too warm for mild winters?
They can be. For mild winters or indoor-heavy days, a leather jacket with a shearling collar and cuffs, or a shearling-lined biker, usually makes more sense.